Monday, April 7, 2008

Lukas Smith's Blog: Chatting with Rasmus (part two and three)

Lukas Smith has posted the second and third parts of his talk with Rasmus Lerdorf - a look at MaxClients and HTTP headers.
As promised here are the two other logs from the recent chat I witnessed. [...] Again I left the logs in their raw original way. Hope they are useful for you all.
Lukas also links to two resources he mentions in the second (third?) log about performance as well as mentioning one of the most useful Firefox extensions for web developers - YSlow!.


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One Trick Pony Restaurants

Yesterday's New York Times dining section reported the opening of Totally Baked, a potato bar. That's right, this restaurant serves only spuds, split and filled with all manner of toppings from wild mushrooms to Manchego cheese, smoked salmon to pulled pork. Oh, and there are sweet potatoes for dessert, of course....

While Totally Baked may be the first establishment to pay homage to such a humble tuber root, it's certainly not the only place dedicated solely to one ingredient or dish. There's S'Mac, devoted to macaroni and cheese, in the East Village; Peanut Butter & Co in the West Village; and Rich to Riches in SoHo, where you can find every flavor of rice pudding imaginable.

The whole trend has got me thinking: if I were to open a restaurant that focused on only one food, what would it be? After much consideration I decided on the apple. It's versatile (apple soups and salads, meats braised in cider, plus cakes and crumbles) and it's also ecological. My restaurant—in my mind I've already named it Eden—would rely on locally farmed produce.

We at Serious Eats are curious to hear your ideas. If you could own a restaurant with only one item on the menu, what would it be?

Got Milk? 2.0

Milk got cool when that guy, his mouth stuffed with peanut butter, answered a muffled "Aaron Burr" to the radio's Alexander Hamilton trivia question. (He lost because he didn't gots milk). Then the string of celebs tattooed with milk 'staches filled the pages of major national magazines, everyone from Batman to the Olsen twins were drinking it. Now the brains behind milk advertising are at it again, with a spoof band called White Gold, already with 3,000 MySpace friends. Everything about the page looks real, sounds real, and the band logged in today, just like any other MySpace band. The long-haired, wannabe Cobain frontman even blogs and wants you to buy his band's vintage-looking tees. Only difference is this...

Embracing the social media market, this campaign has crafted spoofy album songs in Monkees fashion, such as "Heard it through the Bovine," and "PMS (Pour the Milk Sister)." The single "One Gallon Axe" on YouTube has already garnered almost 350,000 listens. White Gold, holding a milk-filled guitar, belts out lyrics like "it's the curds in my cords…the whey in my play…tastes like liquid lace" and, naturally, he's backed by the Calcium Twins (Skimberly on drums and Wholena on bass). It's like Nirvana growing up on a dairy farm.

It'll be interesting to see how this compares to Got Milk? ads of yesteryear. You know, the ones on paper and television screens. How 20th Century.

C7Y P3 Podcast: PHP Newscast for 2008.04.03: Actual news this week

The guys over at php|architect have released the latest episode of their P3 podcast for April 3rd. Some of the topics they look at include:
  • internals talk on attic vs sibera and Phar
  • Foreign Keys in MySQL
  • April Fools on PHPand, of course, TestFest 2008
Two ways to get this new episode - grab the mp3 directly or subscribe to their feed and get the latest episodes automatically (but if you'd already subscribed, you'd know that already, now wouldn't you?)


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People Increasingly Turn To Computers For TV

If you watched the lead-in to "My Name is Earl" last night, you know that (a) Jeff Zucker, the president and CEO of NBC Universal, isn't terribly funny, and (b) his network is pushing online video.  But even with Zucker's "The Office"-gone-bad awkwardness, it seems the act of watching television online is becoming more popular.

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1961 X-15 - B-58 SET RECORDS

1961.04.21 - Major Robert M. "Bob" White piloted the X-15 to 3,074 mph and to 105,900 feet msl. 1961.05.10 ... Major Elmer E. Murphy flew his Hustler 669.4 miles in 30 minutes 45 seconds. Averaging 1,302 mph, Major Murphy set a new record for sustained speed and earned France's Bleriot Cup. (Source: National Archives)

Author: n1014f
Keywords: aviation space X-15 F-100 B-52 Edwards AFB USAF White Murphy Speed Records
Added: April 2, 2008

A Medieval Multitasker: The Whisk

The whisk is more than a tool for aeration. Useful for making sauces, emulsions and more, it is one of the home kitchen's greatest multitaskers. Here is some information for selecting and making the most of this apparatus, which dates to medieval times.

So it seems Monsieur This's take on the whisk is likely rather accurate. That said, while there may be better tools or methods to come for whipping egg whites and cream, the whisk is more than a tool for aeration. Useful for making sauces, emulsions and more, archaic though the whisk may be, it is one of the home kitchen's greatest multitaskers.

Here is some information for selecting and making the most of this medieval apparatus:

Whisk Styles

The three most common styles of whisk are French, balloon, and flat or pan, but there are many others: ball, coil, double balloon, flat balloon, etc. For my money, if you have one decent, medium-sized – say, 10-inch – French whisk (if you make lots of pan sauces and roux, maybe a flat whisk, too) you should be pretty well set for most purposes.

The French whisk is shaped more or less like a tear drop with straight sides, which are helpful for scraping down the sides of pots during cooking. It is a good all-purpose whisk, generally well suited to agitating thick custards, mounting sauces, making emulsions (as for mayonnaise) and whipping cream or egg whites.

The flat whisk is essentially what you'd expect: more or less flat—perhaps with a slight arc for making good contact with the bottom, sides and corners of the pan—and composed of several concentric loops. In terms of blending, this style ranks closely with a fork, and for aerating it's fairly useless, but for making a roux or a sauce, when it's important to keep the mixture moving, and prevent it from getting stuck in the corners or on the bottom of the pan, this type of whisk is very useful. I tend to think of it as a cross between a spatula and a whisk, and use it whenever such an instrument would be appropriate.

The balloon whisk is bulbous, something like a French whisk that's wearing an invisible corset. This type of whisk functions similarly to the French style, except that it's not as good for scraping down the sides of bowls and pans. Often described as the best choice for aerating, i.e. making meringue, whipped cream, sabayon, etc., I've never found the balloon whisk to be much better than a French whisk for this purpose (though, it is a little easier to knock stiff whipped cream and meringue out of the slightly more open head of a balloon whisk).

Whisk Usage and Materials

In general, when using a whisk to aerate or emulsify, the more wires or tines, the better, regardless of the whisk's shape. The extra wires help to unfurl proteins, divide and disperse fat droplets and introduce air bubbles more quickly. (This is the reasoning behind the double balloon whisk, which is, as it sounds, a balloon whisk within a balloon whisk, and the whisk-ball-inside-a-regular-whisk styles, but these are difficult to get scrupulously clean—important for meringues—and are generally overkill, unless you do a lot of cream whipping by hand.)

For stirring thick custards, polentas or the like, a whisk with fewer, thicker wires is best. This provides the sturdiness to plow through thick masses with less resistance.

Aside from metal, there are also bamboo and plastic whisks and metal whisks coated with silicone. These are all good for use in non-stick cookware, but I tend to find their spindles a bit thick, and the silicone and bamboo versions are particularly difficult to rid of residue for successful meringue production.

To my mind, the best type of whisk, regardless of shape, is a metal one with a heat-proof plastic handle, into which the wires are firmly and cleanly cast, such as those made by Matfer. With this type of construction wires rarely come loose (I've never seen it happen), and food cannot easily collect in the area where the wires meet the handle. The handles tend to stay cool during cooking, and they won't melt if they're left to lean against the inside of the pan for a minute or two.

In addition to using whisks for all of the aforementioned tasks, I also like to use them as a shortcut for aerating and blending the dry ingredients for baked goods whenever sifting is indicated for this purpose (unless the recipe suggests sifting multiple times, in which case, it's generally best to do so). It saves time and avoids the messes that often result from sifting. Plus, whisks are much easier to clean than wire mesh sieves.

I've thought about sifting with a bicycle pump and then about stirring a sputtering pot of pastry cream with one—and then I've thanked my lucky stars for the good old whisk.

About the author: Amanda Clarke is a recovering restaurant pastry chef with a background in architecture. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, where she writes, tests, and develops recipes and works on freelance food-styling gigs between walkings and feedings of her two dogs and husband.

F-104 Starfighter

The Lockheed F-104 first served with the USAF in 1958 and remained in service until 1967. Capable of speed in excess of Mach 2, the F-104 was inovative and featured many design firsts.

Author: LeBaron21
Keywords: America Bomb ColdWar Combat F-104 Mach Missile Lockheed NATO Refueling USAF
Added: April 2, 2008