But while the hype about gin being the next vodka may be overstated, there's no doubting that creative bartenders are finding a lot to love with this classic spirit. Hallock mentions one of the nation's most prominent gin cheerleaders, Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club in New York; Saunders' bar is named after a venerable gin cocktail, and her own creations include modern classics such as the Gin Gin Mule, made with fresh mint and house-made ginger beer. And as today's gins begin to explore new directions in flavor and balance, bartenders are likewise introducing fresh herbs and off-the-beaten-path mixers into gin cocktails, such as the self-explanatory Cucumber, Gin and Sherry Twist at BLT Steak on Sunset Boulevard, or Akasha Restaurant's Emerald City, which mixes gin with lime juice and Thai basil-infused simple syrup.
There'll always be a place at the bar for the classic gin martini or a tall, sparkling gin and tonic, but the options are wide open. What's your favorite gin drink? And have you had anything new that's been especially memorable?
About the author: Paul Clarke blogs about cocktails at The Cocktail Chronicles and writes regularly on spirits and cocktails for Imbibe magazine. He lives in Seattle, where he works as a writer and magazine editor.